Understanding the Two Systems
Obagi Nu-Derm and Nu-Derm Fx are comprehensive, professional skin transformation systems targeting hyperpigmentation, sun damage, and visible signs of ageing. The key difference? One ingredient: hydroquinone.
The original Nu-Derm system contains prescription-strength hydroquinone (4%), a gold standard for stubborn pigmentation, melasma and deep sun damage. In the UK, this requires a prescription and clinical oversight. Nu-Derm Fx is the hydroquinone-free alternative, delivering brightening via arbutin—for those who prefer to avoid hydroquinone, have sensitivities, or want a system available without a prescription.
Key Ingredient Comparison
Obagi Nu-Derm System (With Hydroquinone):
- Hydroquinone 4%: Prescription bleaching agent that powerfully inhibits melanin production and tackles even the most resistant pigmentation.
- Tretinoin: Prescription retinoid for rapid cell turnover and boosted collagen.
- Vitamin C: Potent antioxidant for repair, radiance, and further brightening.
- AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids): Chemical exfoliation for improved product penetration and smoother skin.
Obagi Nu-Derm Fx System (Hydroquinone-Free):
- Arbutin: Natural plant-based brightener, gently inhibits melanin production—suitable for sensitive skin and long-term use.
- Retinol: Non-prescription vitamin A derivative, offers cell renewal benefits with less irritation than tretinoin.
- Vitamin C: As above—antioxidant protection and luminous glow.
- Lactic Acid: Mild exfoliation, boosts hydration, and maintains comfort.
Both systems include carefully formulated cleansers, toners, and medical-grade sunscreen—the real difference is in the correcting step.
Which System Should You Choose?
Choose Nu-Derm (with hydroquinone) if you:
- Suffer from deep, stubborn pigmentation, melasma, or severe sunspots
- Need the most dramatic brightening results possible
- Can access a prescription through a dermatologist or qualified practitioner
- Have successfully used hydroquinone in the past
- Are willing to commit to a strict protocol of 12–18 weeks under guidance
Choose Nu-Derm Fx (hydroquinone-free) if you:
- Prefer to avoid hydroquinone or cannot use prescription skincare
- Have sensitive, reactive, or darker skin tones prone to irritation
- Want a brightening option for long-term maintenance
- Are pregnant or breastfeeding (always check with your healthcare provider)
- Want a gentle introduction to medical-grade skincare
Results to Expect and How Long It Takes
Both systems require patience and dedication, but the payoff is transformative:
- Weeks 1-4: Expect an adjustment period; mild dryness, flaking, or redness is common as your skin begins to renew itself.
- Weeks 5-8: Texture and tone visibly improve, while stubborn dark spots begin to lighten.
- Weeks 9-12: Marked fading of pigmentation and overall brightness; compliments start to roll in at this stage!
- Weeks 13-18: Full transformation—dramatic improvement in skin clarity, texture and radiance.
Nu-Derm (hydroquinone) delivers faster, more intense results, while Nu-Derm Fx is more gradual but often more comfortable and easier for sensitive clients to tolerate.
How to Use
Both systems follow a similar structure:
Morning: Cleanser → Toner → Vitamin C → Brightener (hydroquinone or arbutin) → SPF
Evening: Cleanser → Toner → Brightener → Retinoid (tretinoin or retinol) → Hydrating moisturiser
- Introduce new products one by one, leaving several days in between to