Understanding the Two Systems
Obagi Nu-Derm and Nu-Derm Fx are comprehensive, professional skin transformation systems targeting hyperpigmentation, sun damage, and visible signs of ageing. The key difference? One ingredient: hydroquinone.
The original Nu-Derm system contains prescription-strength hydroquinone (4%), a gold standard for stubborn pigmentation, melasma and deep sun damage. In the UK, this requires a prescription and clinical oversight. Nu-Derm Fx is the hydroquinone-free alternative, delivering brightening via arbutin—for those who prefer to avoid hydroquinone, have sensitivities, or want a system available without a prescription.
Key Ingredient Comparison
Obagi Nu-Derm System (With Hydroquinone):
- Hydroquinone 4%: Prescription bleaching agent that powerfully inhibits melanin production and tackles even the most resistant pigmentation.
- Tretinoin: Prescription retinoid for rapid cell turnover and boosted collagen.
- Vitamin C: Potent antioxidant for repair, radiance, and further brightening.
- AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids): Chemical exfoliation for improved product penetration and smoother skin.
Obagi Nu-Derm Fx System (Hydroquinone-Free):
- Arbutin: Natural plant-based brightener, gently inhibits melanin production—suitable for sensitive skin and long-term use.
- Retinol: Non-prescription vitamin A derivative, offers cell renewal benefits with less irritation than tretinoin.
- Vitamin C: As above—antioxidant protection and luminous glow.
- Lactic Acid: Mild exfoliation, boosts hydration, and maintains comfort.
Both systems include carefully formulated cleansers, toners, and medical-grade sunscreen—the real difference is in the correcting step.
Which System Should You Choose?
Choose Nu-Derm (with hydroquinone) if you:
- Suffer from deep, stubborn pigmentation, melasma, or severe sunspots
- Need the most dramatic brightening results possible
- Can access a prescription through a dermatologist or qualified practitioner
- Have successfully used hydroquinone in the past
- Are willing to commit to a strict protocol of 12–18 weeks under guidance
Choose Nu-Derm Fx (hydroquinone-free) if you:
- Prefer to avoid hydroquinone or cannot use prescription skincare
- Have sensitive, reactive, or darker skin tones prone to irritation
- Want a brightening option for long-term maintenance
- Are pregnant or breastfeeding (always check with your healthcare provider)
- Want a gentle introduction to medical-grade skincare
Results to Expect and How Long It Takes
Both systems require patience and dedication, but the payoff is transformative:
- Weeks 1-4: Expect an adjustment period; mild dryness, flaking, or redness is common as your skin begins to renew itself.
- Weeks 5-8: Texture and tone visibly improve, while stubborn dark spots begin to lighten.
- Weeks 9-12: Marked fading of pigmentation and overall brightness; compliments start to roll in at this stage!
- Weeks 13-18: Full transformation—dramatic improvement in skin clarity, texture and radiance.
Nu-Derm (hydroquinone) delivers faster, more intense results, while Nu-Derm Fx is more gradual but often more comfortable and easier for sensitive clients to tolerate.
How to Use
Both systems follow a similar structure:
Morning: Cleanser → Toner → Vitamin C → Brightener (hydroquinone or arbutin) → SPF
Evening: Cleanser → Toner → Brightener → Retinoid (tretinoin or retinol) → Hydrating moisturiser
Pro tips:
- Introduce new products one by one, leaving several days in between to monitor for sensitivity.
- Always apply SPF 50 every morning—brightening products increase sun sensitivity.
- Start retinoids slowly (every 2–3 nights) and build up as tolerated.
- Take before photos and track your progress monthly.
- Follow your practitioner's guidance closely for best results.
Potential Side Effects and How to Manage Them
Both systems can cause initial adjustment reactions:
- Dryness and flaking: Use a richer moisturiser and reduce retinoid frequency.
- Redness or irritation: Scale back active products temporarily and focus on barrier repair.
- Increased sensitivity: Avoid exfoliants, hot water, and harsh products during treatment.
If irritation persists beyond 2 weeks, consult your skincare professional for adjustments.
Who Should Avoid These Systems?
- Pregnant or breastfeeding (particularly Nu-Derm with hydroquinone)
- Those with active skin infections or open wounds
- Individuals with extremely sensitive or compromised skin barriers
- Anyone unable to commit to daily SPF use
Your Path to Brighter, More Even Skin
Whether you choose Obagi Nu-Derm or Nu-Derm Fx, the key is consistency and proper guidance. Both systems deliver proven, transformative results when used correctly.
Ready to start your skin transformation? Explore Obagi systems or contact our skincare experts for personalised product recommendations tailored to your unique skin concerns.
Your brightest, most radiant skin is within reach—let's make it happen together!
